We Are Legal!

After eight years - depending on who you talk to - the communities of Patujusal 2 and Taruma have the title to their land. When these communities are started the people 'squat' on the land since there is no means by which to get title. There is also the legal aspect that this probably is part of the national reserve but no one will say that it is illegal to take reserve land. As the communities are settled, the work on legal status is started. Do I understand it? No.

Last Wednesday we saw a parade of motos, bikes, and people on foot heading to Taruma. Quickly we learned that the titles were to arrive that day. A delegation from Santa Cruz was coming to present them. There was not a quorum for the meeting in Patujusal 2 to arrange for a meeting with the delegation so their title was delivered to the president. However, Taruma held a grand fiesta to which we were invited.

The title is a document that gives a certain number of hectares to the sindicato. It does not give each person a title to their own land. All our land is held communally and the members of the community have the right to decide what is happening on each other's land, including if the land can be sold. In some sindicatos there are laws saying that only a certain number of hectares can be cleared each year. Others, such as Patujusal 2, does not want any land sold to people who do not live in the community; that is, to people who live in Yapacani or Santa Cruz and will rent out their land.

Before the title was handed to the officials, the man from INRA (the government agency that regulates land titles) carefully explained what was on the document and explained that it is the wish of the government tha the people take care of the lands for their children and their granddchildren. That fits in with our vision for these communities.

Now that the community title is in our hands, the next step will be the divison of each sindicato into separate parcels and obtaining titles for each parcel. When -- and I am not holding my breath -- this happens, the families can obtain credit from the bank.

We are glad that we live in a legal community.

Our first Workshop

It has taken two and a half years but we are finally ready to host workshops for the members of the surrounding communities. Our first workshop was led by our friend, Dr. Bill Janecke. He is a veterinarian from Iowa who works out of Santa Cruz with World Concern. All of the people have some Creole chickens running around. These are a hardy variety that does not require the same care as the chickens produced for meat. They produce fine eggs and although the meat is very tough, it is also tastier than the mass produced birds. However, these birds are still susceptible to disease and need care in order to grow and reproduce successfully.

The morning was spent getting acquainted with the people and their communities. This is essential to facilitate successful workshops. Following lunch, Bill and another Bolivian vet gave a short course on chickens and then we all went to the neighbours to actually vaccinate.

People from seven communities attended this workshop and there was a strong indication that they want more information on animal production, fruit production, vegetable gardening, and beekeeping. Women want to learn how to knit, sew, and make clothes. Their husbands want them to learn how make cake!

Transportation Bolivian Style

One of our aims is that the people of the community make enough money from their crops to provide the necessary things for their families. This is the reason that we started the microcredit project. One way we have determined the success of this project is seeing the changes and one of the most noticeable advances is the 125 cc.motorcycle, the main transportation for the people in the chaco. This moto provides a means for the men to get back and forth to their farms in a timely manner. They can also take also their families, their seed, their seeder, their food and anything else that they need for their stay.

When we moved here two and a half years ago there was only a couple of men who had motos in our community. Now everyone but two own their own transportation and traffic has increased down the road. We do not need to transport people to the doctor, except in the case of pregnant ladies ready to have their baby. Men make a trip to Yapacani in a little over than an hour and a half, rather than spending 8 hours for a return trip on the micro. Men who didn't drive a moto six months ago are now cruising past with their whole family accompanying them.

A Changing Landscape

When we decided to move to Bolivia we thought that we were moving to the jungle and that things would remain relatively primitive. But you cannot stop progress.

Four years ago each farmer was cultivating 2-4 hectares of land by hand. This is called ‘chaqueado’ farming. We were told that mechanized farming was not allowed in this area but this is Bolivia and the ‘guidelines’ are just that. Each year our neighbours have cleared more land, first by hand and recently renting a caterpillar to do the work for them.

So we joined them, reluctantly. We don’t like the impact of the machinery on the soil but we would not be able to do any experimentation unless we cleared some of our own land and started growing rice.

But we still could not be ‘normal’. Instead of simply brushing all the trees into a long row or ‘cordon’ and then burning them, we buried the trees and covered them with soil. Hopefully, this will provide nutrition as they decompose. We are not sure how the removal of that much top soil will affect the rice production but we will see.

Now instead of looking out at all the native bush I look out over our land, and the neighbour’s land, and the next neighbour’s land and so on. We plan to plant trees along the property line and also on top of one of the cordons. Yes, it looks naked right now but just wait a year!

Waiting in line

Oh, how funny! A shortage of diesel in Alberta! We love it!

It is November and it is time to harvest the soy and seed the rice. That means diesel! As many of you know, there was a complete shut down of deliveries of diesel, especially to more rural areas, during September. One the 'incidents' had died down, every returned to normal but there still is a great diesel shortage.

Our little truck uses diesel. We went into Yapacani, hoping that there would be diesel. We had some in a jerry can but things were getting pretty tight. It seems like one gas station would have diesel and one had to listen around town to find out which station would be open that night. Km. 9 was the station so off we went. Teodoro and Geraldo were already in line. Teodoro brought 4 - 200 liter barrels to the station at 8 a.m. and was waiting for the station to start pumping at 7. He thought we would have diesel by 8 or maybe a little later. Both he and Geraldo would have to be there when they were pumping since there was a limit of 2 barrels per person. Many of the people had brought their containers or their vehicles and left them in line. Everyone took turns watching each other's containers. Jake returned at 9 p.m. No diesel.

The next morning we went again to the station to find Teodoro and Geraldo still waiting in line. What do we do? Go to Santa Cruz and chance getting diesel there? We had a friend coming through that said there were station pumpind diesel in Montero, midway between Yapacani and Montero. We decided to try it. If nothing else, we could leave the truck at our friend in Montero and take a taxi to Santa Cruz. When we came to Montero, the wife of Zenon Flores graciously sold us their jerry can of diesel so that we could make the trip. When we returned in the evening we visited with them and they urged us to take their remaining diesel also, saying that they lived in town and were able to get diesel much easier than we could. What great friends! With that diesel we were able to get back to Patujusal (we would have to spend the night waiting in line of we wanted more) and then again to Yapacani.

We bought two barrels -- one had a crack in it -- but we now have one barrel of diesel. It took waiting two nights in line, a couple of hours each time, to get the barrels and the truck filled but we feel comfortable that we have enough for a couple of months.

And Teodoro? He got his 4 barrels that night and returned to buy more the next night. They are stockpiling so that they will have diesel for their tractor but they use 1 barrel each day.

Another Good Crop

Another harvest season is complete. The second soy crop appears to be better than last year, with yields of 2 to 3 tonnes per hectare. Although the price has weakened, our neighbours were still able to profit from their investment. They are paying back their short term loans and are investing their money in the clearing of more land.

When we reflect over the past couple of years we see many changes, the greatest being the amount of land that is being cleared for the mechanized production of rice and soy. Last spring most of the families in the community acquired a motorcycle, some purchased houses in Yapacani, one purchased a truck, and two purchased tractors.

Sad to say, the truck was not a good investment since the motor quit soon after purchase and Mario does not have the extra $1000 to fix it. He maxed out his loans with us so we were not willing to advance any more money. He will wait until he gets the profits from his soy, then fix the truck. His wife wanted to buy a house rather than the truck; I think she will have to wait another year for her house.

The two tractors in the community have relieved the tension over lack of equipment for planting and harvesting. Tomas and his sons purchased a new New Holland tractor with a sprayer and disk in the spring. Teodoro, his son, did custom disking and spraying this year. They have now added a seeder to their line of equipment and hope to add a different type of disk and a chimungo, a wagon for hauling rice and soy from the field. We have noticed the tractor hauling people out of the mud also!

It is good to see progress. We know that with progress comes problems but that is all part of the challenge.

Pink eye, Red Eye, Purple Eye

On Sunday morning my eye was very itchy but not bad enough to stay home from church. During the afternoon, it became redder and it felt as though there was something in it. I had spent some time sanding and had come upon termite nests so thought that maybe a small piece of termite dung settled in the eye and that it would soon disappear. My glands were starting to swell and I was having difficult swallowing. Why not just one thing at a time?

We already planned to go to Santa Cruz on Wednesday and while there I would pick up some medication. There was no reason to do to the doctor. I could buy antibiotic drops and Cipro for the swollen glands. Back home again, happy that things would improve.

But they didn’t -- they got worse!

Friday morning at 5 o’clock I told Jake that I thought my other eye was becoming infected. Remember, we do not have ‘normal’ electricity and I do not have many mirrors in the house. But when I looked – WOW! The whole eye ball was the color of the little red truck – and the eye lid as well! I guess the drops did not work. So back to Santa Cruz and this time to a doctor.

We went to the Eye Hospital, paid our 200 bolivianos ($29.00) for a consultation and waited. The actual consult was short – very short – less than 5 minutes. I was told that I had a very bad case of bacterial conjunctivitis (pink eye), that it was very contagious, that I should not shake hands nor kiss anyone, that I continue taking the drops but use one drop in each eye every two hours, and that I come back in a week.

(In retrospect, I am sure that I got the conjunctivitis from the little neighbour boy. A number of small children, ages 1-2 years, develop eye infections at this time of year. Why only now and not all year long?)

I looked at my eye in the mirror of the truck. Why do you forget the camera when you need it! The eye was changing color once again. It appeared that I had applied a thick layer of purple eye liner and accented it with yellowy-orange eye shadow. In addition, there was a purple mark along the side of the nose and another one arching upwards. Poor make up job or Jake hit me in the eye!

We were home 13 hours after leaving in the morning and I continued with the medication. Within another day the worst of it was over. The eye is still very tender and becomes sore with the salty sweat that flows down my face in the wonderful plus 30 degree weather. It is still ugly but I don’t think I am going to spend 10 hours driving back and forth to Santa Cruz to be told that it is healing.

Upheaval and Survival

Round One is over. No more blockades. No more marches. No more ‘paros’. No more violence – at least not for the near future.

Up to this point we have avoided the political situation as much as possible. However, two things happened this last time that brought everything close to home. First, we were expecting visitors from Canada who were to arrive while the blockade was happening. Second, our own neigbours were active in the blockade and march. Our friends decided to postpone their trip since it was a two month stay. We are still hoping to rearrange it.

The community involvement is more complicated. During other minor blockades the neighbours may or may not have been involved. A fine of 20 bolivianos was levied but it was no big deal if one did not attend. Many times the guys would come to the blockade at roll call and then go back into town or back into the chaco; nothing was said. But this was different. All the indigenous communities were involved and all were united in their cause. They were very upset with the deaths that occurred in the Pando and with the violence and destruction that occurred in Santa Cruz. They were frustrated that the government with an initial 50% approval rating, and then a 67% approval rating, was not able to govern. The fine rose to 150 bolivianos and the men were to be there for a full 48 hours. There were three groups from our community taking turns at the blockade. We are not sure how many people were there but reports were up to 5000 people in Yapacani.

The march consisted on mainly farmers from the Santa Cruz area. We talked to our neighbours and they perceived it as a peaceful march and said that the marchers tried their best not to react to provocation. There were no injuries and no destruction of property. Reports stated that they were heavily armed – with machetes and 22s.

We did not get involved in this blockade because we were a bit scared and didn’t think that it would be safe. In retrospect, both of us are embarrassed by that excuse.

I spent many nights on the computer researching the situation. Sad to say, there was very little mentioned about the campesino march and their frustrations. Although the gas tax was mentioned, there was never any factual information on the division of taxes. Although land reform was mentioned, there was no factual information of this situation either. I became curious. What caused this dissension? Although both problems have long histories, it was difficult to find web sites that spoke without bias. Most tended to be slanted very much to one side of the other, with very little fact. Finally I was able to find a couple of websites that seemed to have more fact than bias. I encourage you to read these if you want to know why the situation is now volatile.

http://www.cepr.net/documents/publications/bolivia_land_2008_07.pdf

http://www.coha.org/2007/11/agrarian-revolution/

For the perspective of an American living in Santa Cruz check out http://www.santacruzperspective.blogspot.com/. It will give you good reason to wonder about what is really going on!

What will we do next time? We are not sure but we will not be hiding out in the jungle. W We cannot sit still if we seriously mean that we believe in justice for the oppressed.

We survived -- until the next time

Last night our neighbour, Andrea, came over to use the phone and she told us the blockades and the march was over -- for now. The campesinos have abandoned their march on Santa Cruz, pending the signing of an agreement by the two parties. The men will return home and life will be normal once again.

BUT, and there is always the but, nothing was signed today. According to the Santa Cruz paper, the government ordered the campesinos to abandon the march and they obeyed. However, if nothing materializes the march and the blockades will go up again on October 15. In reading the papers today, it does not seem like there is much movement towards an accord. The five eastern provinces are determined that they will retain the oil royalties and their 'right to autonomia' while the campesinos are equally determined that they should have a share of the royalties and that the new constitution should be passed. What will happen is anyone's guess. We hope and pray that the violence shown in the Pando and in Santa Cruz City will not be repeated.

So we will life as usual in the campo and will ensure that we have enough suppplies for the long haul in case there are more blockades in October. We survived just fine this time but we remember to buy the toilet paper and the toothpaste. These were not items that we had on the 'needed supply' list. Hopefully, we will have the solar energy problem solved by then and we will be 'tranquilos'.

The Big Bad World

Today we were forced to enter into the Big Bad World out there after living in the safe cocoon of our little farm. Filipe came early this morning to tell us that Erselia was in labor; that meant a trip to either La Pista or Yapacani. Since there was no doctor in La Pista we headed to Yapacani.

To our surprise things appeared very normal except that there was no 'heavy traffic'. Most of the stores are open but the restaurants are closed. However, the small portable cafes were still in business. We were able to purchase the few things we needed -- the most important being toilet paper. Funny how that was not on the list of staples needed. There were some vegetables available but expensive. Thank goodness we have our own

We also picked up some construction supplies but were not able to purchase diesel, gasoline or propane. One of our friends took a couple of our propane bottles and will try to exchange them when the truck comes from Cochabamba. It is there at 10 in the morning and leaves when the bottles are sold. Diesel and gasoline might be available during the night but we were not staying that long.

On our way home we picked up someone in a town about 15 km. from our place. He told us that there were two barrels of diesel for our neighbour. We have given up trying to figure out how he purchased two barrels but we know that they need the fuel for their tractor. We are sure that we will be able to get some from them if we really need it.

We are praying that an accord will be signed on Thursday. The alternative is not something we want to think about.

Life in the Chaco

Returning to life in the chaco takes some adjustment. Life is back to 'normal' and routines have been established once again. Some things have changed.

We have been trying to get the solar electrical system working but have been having difficulty with it. There is sufficient energy during about 5 hours of the day to use the internet and the computer but for some reason the batteries are not storing the energy for use during the evening. Since there is a shortage of gasoline, I am thankful for the time I can use the computer without using the generator.

We also have a new well and that has supplied us with clean water. There has been a little rain so there is also water in the tank. All I have to do is turn the tap and I can fill the buckets to water the plants. It sure beats the hand pump, especially since it was not working well.

But everything is not so normal. The political situation is rather volatile and we choose not leave our little haven at the end of the world. We have veggies in the garden, fish in the river, enough supplies in the cupboard for a few weeks. There is enough gasoline to run the generator for a couple of weeks, enough propane for the stove and fridge for about that long, and diesel in the truck to get into town. The neighbours have offered to purchase the necessary groceries that we need so the first thing I needed was toilet paper! We hope that the situation is resolved swiftly and that we can return to normal activities.

Look What You Can Buy in Santa Cruz

I am a reader and often the only thing in the suitcase coming back from Canada is a load of books. Imagine my delight when I walked into the local grocery store and found a new selection of English books -- Vinyl Cafe Diaries by Stuart McLean, a Sunday at the pool in Kinglali. Yes, there would be a market for those and a variety of other English books. But Wayside Flowers of Alberta and Animal Tracks of Alberta? If anyone wants a copy for just under five dollars (I didn't say they were cheap), I will get you one.

The Last Chapter

Tuesday morning our guest, Gordon Gilchrist, arrived from Alberta, Canada and we planned to spend a week or ten days exploring agricultural projects in Bolivia. Arrangements were made enabling Erselia to purchase the needed drugs for Jhonny and we planned to hire someone to stay at the hospital over night so that Erselia would get some much needed rest.

Jhonny was breathing on his own – no respirator. However, he appeared to have seizures every five minutes and during that time it was difficult to keep his body from arching. After the seizure ended someone would straighten his body so that he could breath normally again. With medication these seizures were controlled but it was very evident when the medication was wearing off. The specialist was very optimistic about his progress; the doctors in the unit also felt there was improvement.

We were just finishing supper when the phone rang asking me to come to the hospital. I left immediately, expecting to find the lady that would care of Jhonny for the night. Instead I found Erselia crying in the hall way. She told me that Jhonny had died but I was positive that I had misunderstood her. I went into the ward and found out that it was true. Between 8:30 and 8:45 Jhonny was laying in bed and everything seemed normal. Then his heart stopped. There was no notice, nothing. It just stopped and everything was over.

Dealing with death when you know it is imminent is one thing. But dealing with it when you think things are progressing in something else. Because Erselia was in shock, Jake, Gordon and I had to make all the decisions, purchase the coffin, pay the bills, and tie up all the loose ends. It was good we had gone through the process. The half hour process with Jose Luis turned into a three hour marathon with Jhonny because there was so much more bookwork. Because the offices were closed no final accounts were available so the secretary had to add everything up, cross check it, and then come up with the final bill. We paid the estimated bill and I will go back and get the final numbers next week.

It was midnight before we left Santa Cruz and arrived in Patujusal at 5 in the morning. Imagine being woken up to be told that your son or your brother was dead. The body was brought to the church, washed, dressed and placed in the coffin again.

The next day some of the neighbours helped build the nicho – the tomb for the coffin. While that was being constructed the rest of the neighbours and the school children were singing and hearing scripture at the church.

It was nearly five o’clock in the evening when the red truck with the coffin and the family headed down the road to La Pista to the cemetery. Behind were the people, walking or biking the 11 kilometers. Thankfully, another neighbour picked up another load and everyone gathered at the cemetery for the internment. The candle lit ceremony was impressive. Jhonny was laid to rest. He is in heaven without any pain, with a brain that functions normally, with legs and eyes that are perfect. As hard as it is for the family left behind, I know that everything is working out for good. We are thankful that God has taken care of him and we are assured that He is also care for the family and friends left behind.

Isolation

After a very frustrating weekend we have come to an amicable relationship with the staff in the Isolation Unit. The regular staff are doctors with whom we have worked before and we are now able to have out questions answered.

Jhonny has two serious infections -- chicken pox and a severe urinary infection. The chicken pox is running its course and they are treating the urinary infection. Aside from that he is suffering from seizures related to the operations. These seizures are happening every five minutes and cause severe body contortions that also affect his breathing. When the seizure subsides Jhonny needs to be lifted back into a laying position. Because his mom is short she has difficulty doing this.

We talked to the specialist today and he is hoping that within a week or two Jhonny will be able to be transferred to the hospital in Yapacani and then to our house. He will need at least three months to rebuild his energy before they will consider radiation.

The lack of knowledge about brain surgery is quite evident. Only the specialist really knows what is going on and the rest of the doctors are on the same learning curve as we are. Thanks to the internet I have been able to research what is happening. Although it seems like ages to us it has only been six weeks -- not an unreasonable amount of time for brain surgery.

Same stuff -- different day

It has been over a week and nothing has changed -- just more surgeries and more CT scans. Saturday night was another night at the hospital waiting for surgery. The two hour surgery ended up taking four hours and Jhonny now has two shunts in his head, as well as a four catheters to drain the liquid from his brain. A feeding tube was going to be inserted at the same time but the doctor failed to show up so that was done on Monday.

Today Jhonny was moved to another part of the hospital -- into isolation. He has pimple-like spots on his body and they are not sure what is causing them. His room is very nice but he isn't enjoying it. He still is not responding except to noise and touch.

Because he has been in bed and inactive for so long his limbs are atrophying. It is very hard to move his legs at the knees although moving them does bring about a negative reaction. His hands are clenched, rigid, and bent backwards. When he lays his body is arched and his head lays at a peculiar angle. No matter how many times we straighten out his body it returns to that angle. His teeth are clenched and he often is grinding them.

It is hard to go every day and see no change. It is hard not to be discouraged. This is also affecting Erselia and she was very eager to go home for a day this week. It is the first time she was willing to leave the hospital for any length of time. We left Tuesday night and came back Thursday morning. Erselia was able to spend a day with the rest of her family and enjoy the Independence Day celebration in the community.

When we came back today Erselia and I talked about the future and she said she did not want Jhonny to continue to suffer. They want to know what his quality of life will be before they continue with more treatments, especially radiation. Our new challenge will be to get an answer to that question.

More Surgeries for Jhonny

All week there was talk about inserting a shunt into Jhonny's head but nothing happened. Then on Saturday afternoon we are told that he will have to go for another tomography (CT Scan). About 6 pm. I receive a phone call from the specialist saying that they will insert the shunt at 10:30 that night. Why on a Saturday night? We asked for the list of medications needed for the anesthesia but they did not have it ready. By the time we received it we had to rush to find everything since most of the pharmacies were closed. He did have the surgery and we were assured that things went well.

It is not Tuesday. And guess what? We are scheduled for another surgery today. It appears that the shunt is not working. From what I understand the body is producing protein which is forming globules that is plugging the shunt. It needs to be replaced. This is little Jhonny's fifth surgery in a month. How much more can his body and head take?

Laying Jose Luis to Rest

How so I begin? How much do I say? What is important? All these questions go through my mind as I sit down to write. I did not know Jose Luis except to see him play while we helped build the church in Vibora. His dad is part of our Church Leaders' Group but I have only met him a few times since he was not always able to attend. And the biggest thing is that although I played a large part in this story I know that it was only the hand of God that put me there.

Jose Luis entered the Children's Hospital in a coma. He had already had a CT scan and his parents were told that he suffered an aneurysm The next day the diagnosis was changed to meningitis. Jose Luis remained in a deep coma and his brain no longer functioned. His face was chilly to the touch and his eyes were vacant. Wisely, the parents choose not to purchase medications so little by little Jose Luis faded away. The doctors wished to harvest his organs but that was not something that his parents could even contemplate. On Wednesday afternoon, Jose Luis blood pressure fell to such a level that the doctors were willing to remove the oxygen and declare him dead. As hard as that was, it was a relief that it was finally over. Once we knew the death was imminent, everything moved very quickly.

Although there are funeral services available in Bolivia, the family did not have the money or the inclination to purchase these services. Instead Julio, Jose Luis' father, and I went down the street and purchased the casket -- a simple white box with a small piece of glass so that the face could be viewed. Before we could take possession of the casket, we needed the death certificate. Back to the hospital. All the tubes and paraphernalia had been removed and Jose Luis was again dressed in his own clothes and his body was put on a gurney in the hall.

Back to the funeral home with the documentation. It is Bolivia but there are still some things that are not done -- you do not carry the casket down the street. Instead the men from the funeral home took it in their car to the hospital. In the meantime, there was an attempt to convince the family to have the body brought to the funeral home for embalming. Frankly, we told him they could do it but there was no money to pay them. Strangely, they did not force the issue.

One cannot leave the hospital until all the bills are paid so Julio was doing that while we were preparing the body and putting it in the coffin. He did not have enough money. Yes, the bed itself costs 120 bolivianos a day but one still has to pay for the oxygen and all the monitoring machines. The total bill with the discount still came to over 11oo bolivianos for four days.

The casket was taken out of the hospital and loaded into the back of the truck along with the other things we had purchased. Julio was quite anxious about being stopped at one of the check stops so we made sure that the casket was covered with a tarp and that there was enough other things in the truck so that there would be no need to be stopped.

After a short stop in Yapacani and other in Challavito we arrived at the church in Vibora where the coffin was placed in the church. No one had any experience with death or funerals so each event was discussed before it took place. The family wanted the body washed so that was the first step. That provided a good time to explain what had happened with the meningitis, what had happened to the body already and what would happen in the next day. After a time of worship it was time to rest. Many of the people simply slept in the church that night.

The next morning the men built the crypt for the coffin. This is a brick structure built above ground and the coffin in slipped in the mouth and then sealed with more bricks. When this was completed, dinner was served followed by a short service. Then the body was carried to the cemetery and placed in the crypt after a short service and prayer.

Bolivians do not show their sorrow or support in the way we are accustomed. The mother was sobbing, distraught, but no one 'comforted' her. No one except the parents cried although it was evident through their support that they cared. There was no touching, no hugging, no crying together. We hope that the community continues to support but we also have to remember that their view of death is in many ways more realistic than that of North Americans. We know that Julio's faith is strong and that certainly will carry them a long ways.

FRUSTRATION!

Anyone who knows me well will be wondering how I am even handling all this stuff that is out of my control. Today -- not very well.

Although the family made the decision to let Jose Luis die, the state has its laws and they are not willing to remove the oxygen. We went through this morning waiting and waiting. Finally a young doctor told us the same story -- his brain is not functioning etc, etc. Julio asked that the machines be removed and was told that the law does not allow that and we would have to wait another 48 hours. I asked for a meeting with the chief of ICU and he gave us the same story. I told him that the family did not know what to believe because we were told on Sunday that it would be Monday, on Monday that it would be today. I understood what was happening until the emotions came into play and they all talked more rapidly. From what we understood, the family could pay for the bed, then get something from the doctor, get some legal work done, and the machine would be removed. But reality was much different. When they removed the machine and Jose Luis started to gasp for air the mother said, "No, no" and the hospital took that as an indication that they did not want the machine removed. So we are back to square one. I am trying to get a translator for tomorrow so that I know what is happening and what needs to be done.

Although we don't want to be negative, it now seems like a money grab. The one doctor said we would have to wait 2 or 3 months because Jose Luis could come out of the coma! The cost of the bed with a discount is 120 bolivianos a day, not the 30 another family quoted. We are not sure if this is a true price or what is happening. We were also told that if we paid $110US we could get an EKG to prove that the brain was not working.

So tomorrow we begin over again.

Emotional Roller Coaster

The emotional roller coaster had me for a rider today. The incredible downs centered on little Jose Luis, the son of one of the members of the Leader's group I teach. His brain activity has not increased but the doctors are unable to disconnect him from the machines until 48 hours has elapsed. It has been a traumatic day for his parents, just seeing the shell of their son breathing and heart beating but no brain activity. Today they covered his eyes so we did not see the vacant look. We think that tomorrow they will disconnect machine and we will be able to take him to Vibora for his burial.

But then there are the good things -- things that are hard to celebrate when someone else is dying. Jhonny is starting to respond and we are sure that he is hearing us. When we talk his body starts to move and his head turns. We are not sure how much he hears but I told his dad to tell him all about the farm. His dad, his brothers and sister came into town today to visit their mom. It was a great treat for Erselia.

And then there is the highlight. We were blessed with another grand daughter. Although we cannot hold her and hug her we hear that her big sister is doing that for us.

Today was supposed to be a calm, quiet day. After church I spent some time eating lunch and reading my book, then stopped in the park and read some more. Erselia and I went for a leisurely walk through the park and looked at all the artisan stuff for sale at the market. We returned to the hospital about 3 pm. I noticed how my mood changed when we walked into the hospital -- more subdued, more depressed.

We arrived at the Intensive Care Unit and a man whom I recognized but could not place said ¨Hermana Margarita¨ (Sister Margaret). His wife was in tears and we learned that their son had been admitted to intensive care while we were for our walk. He had fallen off his bike on Thursday and he had a headache but nothing that serious. It became worse so they took him to the doctor in Vibora who called the local ambulance from the gas company and they transfered him to Yapacani. There he was intubated and sent off to Santa Cruz in an ambulance. He ended up in ICU, two beds down from Jhonny.

How I would like to tell you that things are well with Jose Luis but that is not so. The doctor told us that he had an aneurism in his head and that there is blood throughout his brain and into his body. The prognosis is not good. He is literally brain dead and is being kept alive with a respirator waiting for a specialist´s opinion -- the same doctor that operated on Jhonny. We were told that a normal brain rates 15, one in danger rates 7 or 8. Jose Luis is rated at 3. . His eyes do not move and his skin is cool. While we were there the doctor took off the machine and his breathing stopped. It is incredibly hard on the parents and the mother is very, very upset. I bought her a relaxant and she is now sleeping.

This is not what I had expected when I woke up this morning. But I am very grateful that I was in the place where I could help this family. Please add them to your prayer list.

Finally -- some answers

Every day seems to bring about more answers and more questions. This morning one of the doctors said that Jhonny appeared a little better but that there were still complications. We met with the specialist who said that although the fluid was draining, there is a possibility that there will need to be more surgery to insure that this drainage continues. They call it a ‘valvula’ and without internet connection, I have not been able to check on more information. Because the surgery sounds very serious I decided to get a second opinion.

I met with a cancer specialist. Although we have not been able to get the results, this doctor found out that the tumor is one that can not be treated with neither chemotherapy nor radiation. There is a good chance that it will continue to grow and more surgeries will need to be done in the future. However, at this time, the ‘valvula’ is the best option if the fluid does not drain. We need to wait another 5 or 6 days to see if this operation is necessary. What they would do is insert a tube in his head and lace it through his body to his stomach so that the fluid would continually drain. Without it the pressure would build up and would cause more problems.

It is a relief to have some information. I am assured daily that Jhonny would have died without the operation. They are also amazed that Jhonny lived without symptoms for so long. If I were not there to assure them that Erselia was right, I am sure they would not believe her.

However, there are times when I have doubts about what we have done. There is a chance that he will have one weak side and have vision problems. We still do not know how his brain will heal and if there is more damgage. If he is truly handicapped, what is his future in the campo? How will his parents care for him and the other five children? Will it be too much of a burden? How does anyone cope with this without faith?

One forward and two back or two forward and one back?

We were disappointed this morning to hear that Jhonny would undergo another surgery this afternoon. It was especially difficult for Erselia since many of the women talk about him not coming through this. It took some reassuring that this was not as major as the other surgeries and was only to drain some of the fluids. The specialist felt that it was better to put in another couple of tubes so that things would drain better. So it is back to Jhonny being under anesthesia and waiting for him to show response.

While Jhonny was in surgery two young doctors interviewed Erselia about Jhonny's medical history. Every time she tells it I learn more. The same day that she went in for a checkup for the baby, she took Jhonny along since he was getting worse. The doctor in La Pista had given him Milk of Magnesia but that didn't help. I wonder why? Then in Yapacani the doctor told her that they lived in dirty conditions with pigs and chickens and all Jhonny had was an infection. He didn't check him or order any tests. The lack of caring is almost too much to handle. It seems that if you live in the campo you are automatically (1) dumb and illiterate, (2) dirty, (3) have 'bichos', (4) not deserving of proper medical care.

I asked Erselia what was most important in the campo. (1) clean water. That can be solved by a simple filtration system using buckets and sand. (2) a good doctor. I am not sure we can do anything about that but I hope that we can increase awareness of illness - what is serious and what is not. Maybe a yearly medical team? Anyone willing to take that one on?

Improving!

Jhonny is improving. He is coughing and that means his body is working on its own. The fever is still a problem but something with which we will have to endure for now. Today we journeyed back to the 'rich' hospital for another tomography and it certainly looked better. Although there is still some fluid on the brain, the general pictures were very clear in comparison to last week. Things to be thankful for.

Being in the city can be pretty depressing, especially when you sit in the hospital around sick people and their families. Today Erselia and I went for a walk to a local supermarket four blocks from the hospital. I thought it would be a good place for her to know about and it only required one turn. Later she left to purchase diapers for Jhonny and I remained at the hospital reading my book. After an hour and a half I was a bit concerned that she had returned. When she finally came back she said she was lost but did find her way back. She is getting braver.

Small improvements

Jhonny is holding his own. Each day we see small improvements and I am happy to say that is off the respirator and is breathing on his own. His temperature is still a concern since it often is high. The doctor visits him daily and is saying that he is stable. Each day we pray for more improvement.

Finally -- A Better Day

The Condori family was having breakfast when I came to the hospital this morning -- buns and coffee. Erselia was crocheting a mat for a lady who has befriended her and we had a good visit. Jhonny is still not responsive although his body is moving more and the doctor says that he thinks Jhonny will respond in a day or so. The doctors and nurses are saying he is looking better before we ask so that is also a good sign.

This afternoon Erselia and I went to another health clinic to check on the status of her pregnancy. She had gone to the doctor in Yapacani but they were unwilling or unable to go any tests. She presented the documents at this clinic and came out with a big smile on her face and ultrasound pictures of the baby -- not that we could decipher anything. She was told that is was a mujercita -- a girl -- and that it would be born in 9 weeks. I am sure that she is the only women in the community who was a picture of the baby and knows already that it will be a girl.

After tough days it is wonderful to have this ray of sunshine -- a sign of God's love and grace.

A Slow Road

Yesterday was another busy day. The first concern was to get Jhonny a 'catagoria'. This is a type of social assistance and we have been working on this since he arrived at the hospital but every day the lady says "Tomorrow." Finally, after a bit of persistance we finally received the correct papers and Jhonny now receives a lower rate on the lab work, the surgeries and his bed. Erselia was a bit perplexed when the lady told her that all ladies that wore polleras (the native skirt) could not read. The assumption is that if you wear native dress and live in the campo, you are automatically poor.

By the time that was all done and the medications purchased it was too late to bring the tumor to its new home.

At noon we were informed that Jhonny needed another tamography and, thanks to the teachers, we had a 3 p.m. appointment. Of course, that is Bolivian time so it was after 4 before we left since they had problems finding an oxygen bottle for the ambulance. We were thankful that for some reason the ride was free. While we were there the doctors asked if they could get a chest x-ray at the same time. The original price - $42US -- the final price 78 bolivianos or a little over $10.

This morning we finally were able to talk to the surgeon who informed us that the tumor was half the size of Jhonny's brain and that was the reason that recovery was taking so long. He says that Jhonny will be in 'a delicate state' for two or three more days and we won't know much until then.

I was very happy that the doctor talked to us since we were all feeling low. Since Sunday four children have died -- one ten year old and three babies. Erselia expressed this morning that it seems that only dead children came out of that ward. This morning was especially hard since the mother is single and was alone when she was told her baby died. It was a very hard couple of hours until her friends came. There is no type of grief counselling and the staff just walk passed looking straight ahead. It is the other people with children in intensive care that end up helping and supporting.

Every day I am thankful for the health care system we have. You have no idea what it is like to have to pay for every little thing before something can be done. But on the other hand, the public system is not always the cheapest. I brought the tumor to its new home today -- a private lab that will have the results quicker than the public system. The price was 100 bolivianos cheaper at the private lab -- you just never know!

A better day

Jhonny appears better today. Erselia said that he had a tough night, running a high fever. She bathed him with cool cloths until 1 or 2 in the morning. His breathing seemed a bit labored earlier today but now it was more normal. His blood pressure is also normal.

But a day could not go by without some excitement. This morning I had to bring the tumor sample to the cancer hospital. The tumor was in a plastic container and I didn't look at it that well. A block from the hospital we hit a bump -- and the bottom part of the container slid from the top part, which was in my hand. The tumor and all the liquid fell to the floor of the taxi. What to do but scoop the tumor up, jump out of the taxi , run back into the hospital and request that they please replace the liquid. Thankfully they could do that and I proceeded to the cancer hospital -- only to find that it is a holiday (Medical Day? Day for Doctors and Nurses?) and many of the personal at the hospitals were off. So, again, I returned back to the Children's Hospital with the tumor and will bring it back again tomorrow.

We still haven't been able to get Jhonny on Social Assistance so we will try that again tomorrow. I might have to get my girlfriend to help since she speaks Spanish much better than I do.

More Surgeries

I came to the hospital this morning to find that Jhonny was scheduled for surgery again this morning. Because there was fluid and swelling on the brain. It was another six hours in surgery and we really have no idea what is going on. All we know is that they used one more unit of blood and three of plasma. It has been a very hard day on both myself and Erselia.
Today I brought the sample of the tumor to the other hospital and tomorrow I need to do the same with the samples from today's operation. It will be ten days before we get the results.

One Tough Day

I expected that today would be an easy one with Jhonny resting comfortably. Another dream in Technicolor. Jake arrived this morning and we went to church and then to the hospital. We planned to stop to say hello and then go out for lunch and have some time together. Another dream in Technicolor! We arrived to find that new tomographies were needed and Jhonny would be taken to another hospital for these -- but they needed our approval since we would pay the bill. So instead of going out for lunch I viewed the procedure in a very upscale private hospital. The technician said that he could not see much since there was too much swelling and blood. This, however, means that Jhonny will undergo surgery again tomorrow to relieve the swelling and remove some of the liquids. We also noticed that his breathing is very labored and that causes some concern.

We probably would take this more in stride except that another 10 year old boy died today in ICU. He had had a tumor removed two weeks ago. The whole concept of death here is much more 'matter of fact'. The boy died and within a short time all the tubes were removed from the body and they put underpants on him rather than a diaper. Then he was wheeled into the hallway. Within less than ten minutes male members of the family arrived with a coffin and the body was placed in it. The men then carried out the coffin through the front exit of ICU and placed it in a station wagon. Along with the coffin went the candles, lamps, etc. that they use for Catholic funerals. We are not sure if they went directly to the cemetery or to a church. Everything was over at the hospital within half and hour and other baby was in the space.

This whole incident affected both Erselia and me and it does make me more apprehensive about tomorrow's surgery. We ask for all you prayers tonight and tomorrow.

A Day in Surgery

The alarm went off early and off I went back to the hospital. Filipe was trying the bathe Jhonny and shave his head for surgery. His hair off in bits and pieces and Jhonny was crying so I took over that part of the job. It is hard when there is no assistance. Soon Jhonny was tucked back into a warm blanket and off to surgery.

The surgery lasted seven hours. There is not a lot said but they used three more units of blood than they had planned. The good thing is that they just used them and didn't get us to pay for them first. I would have had to change some money and that could have been a crucial delay. The majority of the tumor was removed but they were unable to get it all. After surgery I was presented with two vials with parts of the tumor which I brought to the cancer hospital across town. They were not receiving items until Monday morning --what do I do with tumor parts? Thankfully the hospital took them back and is storing them until Monday morning.

Jhonny was resting quietly when I left. Not that that says much. He was very drugged and these Bolivians don't show it when they are pale.

In the Bolivian hospitals there are many ladies from different churches talking to the patients and their families. One befriended Filipe and Ersilia and they stayed at her place last night. It is great that they have a place to go instead of a hotel room.

Thank you for all the prayers. I will post pictures when I get them off my camera

Adventures of the Medical System

Today was a calm day -- waiting for the operation tomorrow morning. Filipe, Ersilia and Daimer slept at the hospital last night. They joined all the other families sleeping on the floor in the hallway.

Bolivia does have a type of social assistance for the poor. DAVASON provides medicine in exchange for a donation. That was the way we purchased the medications today. It turns out that we paid more for them through the donation that had I purchased them at the pharmacy. Because you do not know the value of the product the donation may be too much or too little. However, this program subsidizes the beds so we will be paying 25 bolivianos per night instead of 50.

Today I calculated all the expenses I have incurred so far. It comes to 4251 bolivianos or just under $600. Imagine that the average wage in the campo is 35 bolivianos a day. Already we have spent 121.5 days of wages! Compare that to earnings of $100 a day and we have spent the equivilant of $12,150 dollars.

Another Day in the Hospital

Filipe and Samuel left this morning for Yapacani. Erselia took the micro from Patujusal to Yapacani. From there Samuel would return home while Filipe and Erselia returned to Santa Cruz. Although I arrived at the hospital at 9, I was informed that I could not sit with Jhonny since I was not his family. Instead I purchased the items for the anesthesiologist. That took until 12:30! Of course, another list was added. I fed Jhonny his lunch and had to leave until 3.

It was good to see the change in Jhonny. He was able to sit up for about 30 seconds before he would loose his balance. That doesn’t seem like much but yesterday he did not have the energy to lift his body off the bed. His appetite returned and he ate all his lunch – after I went across the street to get a spoon so that he didn’t have to eat with his fingers. His speech has returned and the constant questions were "What time is it?" and "When is Daddy coming back?" However, his depth perception has been affected so he has trouble getting the food to his mouth and when he pointed at something, he could not do it.

Another medical system quirk. One has to pay to use blood and it is not cheap by Bolivian standards -- 250 bolivianos or a little over $60 a unit. But before the surgery can be done, one of the parents much donate the units back into the bank. So we purchased 3 units of blood and Filipe must donate 3 units back. He did not do that before he left so surgery is delayed one day.

The items I purchased today were much more expensive than those purchased yesterday. One realizes how the poor simply cannot afford to have these type of operations performed. I changed $500 this morning and the majority of it was used to purchase medication and supplies.

And we complain about our medical system?

Medical System

Last April one of the ladies from the community asked me if I would take her son to the doctor in Santa Cruz. He had been suffering from headaches for the past two years and he had a soft spot on his head. The first doctor wrote a note explaining that she felt the situation was urgent and that she thought Jhonny had a tumor in his head. After looking at the X-rays the doctor at the Children’s Hospital said that yes, there might be a tumor but the biggest problem was ‘bichos’ – the catch all phrase for all worms and insects. Erselia and Jhonny returned home and life went on as normal – or so I thought.

On Saturday the teachers asked what had we had found out about Jhonny – he hadn’t been back to school and his brother said that he was not walking or talking. I talked to an aunt but she knew nothing. However, early the next morning her husband biked over the Erselia’s and found Jhonny in bed. He could no longer walk without assistance and was barely talking. Erselia came to church to ask for prayers for Jhonny so after the church service all the members went to the house since Jhonny could not be moved easily. Jhonny was responsive but very tired. On his head there was a soft spot that felt mushy and his face appeared slightly larger than usual. He was running a low grade fever, had problems with vomiting and incontinence.

3:30 am on Monday Jhonny, his brother Samuel, his father Filipe and I headed to Santa Cruz with all the documentation of the previous visit. We arrived at Mision de Esperanza, a hospital operated by a group from USA. They were unable to help but contacted a neurologist who would meet us, even though it was not his clinic day. He, in turn, sent us off to another clinic where a tomography was taken. By this time, little Jhonny was tired and the only way he could move was if someone carried him. I never thought I would be able to carry a 10 year old boy. Since we would not see the neurologist until 6:30 p.m., the family rested in a little hotel for a few hours. The neurologist informed us that there was a large tumor in Jhonny’s head but we needed to come to the Children’s Hospital the next morning to determine a course of action.

Tuesday morning Jhonny was admitted to the hospital for an assessment. This was 8:30. Finally at 3:30 he had a bed. We had an interesting day in the emergency part of the hospital and I learned a lot. If you need a splint, make one from cardboard. The lack of efficiency is directly related to the amount of paperwork. Nothing can be done until payment is made. The patient buys everything for the treatment – except the cardboard!

First you get a number, go to the cashier, and pay the amount needed for the initial consultation. Then you go back to see the doctor. If there is lab work needed, you go back to the cashier and pay another amount. This lab work is done. Then some more lab work needs to be done. Back to the cashier so that it can be done.

A list two pages long contains all the items needed for the surgery. Off to the pharmacies along the street to buy everything from the saline solutions to the thread for the stitches. Back to the hospital to find another list of items that need to be purchased – and then another list. Finally, we are done and Jhonny is given a room in the ward. Imagine the hospitals 40 or more years ago – an open room with 10 beds. The parent stays to help and only one visitor is allowed. No children are allowed to visit and the visiting hours are strictly enforced. Before we left for the night, I received another two pages list of items needed for the anesthesiologist.

Are we still at the end of the World?

There are times when we become frustrated with the lack of ability to get things done. And then everything happens at once. We purchased a tower for the cell phone but were unable to raise it since we did not have the manpower. It is difficult to do such a project when you are unable to give the proper instructions in Spanish. Thanks to all the muscles of the group from Texas – and their understanding of what needed to be done – the tower is now standing and we have reception on the cell phone. However, we are so used to living without a phone that we don’t remember to turn it on! With the purchase of an additional cell phone Jake will have the advantage of being able the call me and give me his shopping list when I am in the city.

Our new friend Lucy

Is it a swimming pool? And who is Lucy? Everything needs a name so our new venture was named Lucy by Candice, a friend from Canada.

Back in January we started another project – water storage. However, after a few days our helpers found other things to do and the work halted. (Did I ever say that patience is something you learn when you live here?) For months we had a large structure about 5.5 meters in diameter and about a meter high sitting in the yard. When neighbours came they questioned us about our swimming pool. That we were building a large water storage tank was a bit more than they understood.

In May, with the help of Dana and Candice, a couple of Canada and a few Bolivian friends we were able to complete the construction. Although the Bolivians were not comfortable constructing something round and large, they managed.

Using the advice of our cousin who built similar structures in Australia, we tackled the project. Bricks were first laid on a cement foundation. When the brick tank was completed it was reinforced with wire wound closer at the bottom and farther apart at the top. Then a layer of cement was applied to the outside.

At this point all the workers left. Dana and Candice returned to Canada and the rest of the helpers went back to their own work. Jake spent the next week applying the cement to the inside of the tank. Not being as skilled at applying the ‘reboque’ as the Bolivians with a trowel, he used his hands. No one will see the inside anyway, he says.

Jake needs to complete the spouts to the tank and the cover. Then we wait for the rain. When the tank is filled we should enough water with pressure for the house and even be able to water the plants – with a hose rather than a bucket! All we need is a bit more patience for the rains to come – but we are more than willing to wait for that.

And then there is even more water.

A fellow missionary, Daniel Beams, works with well drilling projects. One of his groups, a team from Texas, wanted a jungle experience. Danny knew that this area had trouble with iron in the water and was curious at what level one would reach iron-free, sweet water. Although we didn’t feel we really needed another well, it was more appropriate to dig at our place in case good water was not available.

The first well, 12 meters deep, produced lots of iron laden water. A second well, 50 meters deep, gives iron free water. We are sending some to be tested to ensure that it is drinkable without further filtering.

The team also drilled one well in Tarumá, the neighbouring community. Carlos, the well driller that work with the teams, will continue to drill well with the men of the community over the next month.

A Cell Phone -- Sometimes

Oh if I could count the times when I wish that I could just call someone to reschedule a meeting due to bad roads! Two things prevent this – not everyone has a phone, and even with a phone there may not be reception.

Many of the men in the community own phones so that they can keep in contact with their families in Yapacani. Some have small antennas but others are more creative. They found that if they stand underneath a certain tree located near they can get reception. If the reception is poor, it can be improved by climbing the tree!

At our place we are surrounded by trees and do not have a clear line of sight for reception. We do, however, have a tall metal shed. If Jake climbs up the ladder on to the roof, and then climbs another strategically placed ladder to the peak, he can phone to Yapacani. We still cannot receive phone calls unless he just happens to be up on the roof when a call comes in.

We still hope to get the antenna put up and when that is done we should have reception for the cell phone. If we liked the connectivity to the outside world again we are not sure. But we can always turn the phone off!

A View From Above

Our blogs and newsletters have frequently mentioned the flooding problems and road conditions. Everyone looks for a solution but sometimes we are not sure what the problem is. A remedy for our lack of knowledge was a flight over the Yapacani River to view the present flooding problems and the meanderings of the river.

Since the river broke a new channel last November the communities in our area have not suffered from river flooding. That does not say it is not flooding. Ten inches (25 cm.) of rain a night can cause its own flooding problems! However, across the river, in the county of San Juan, serious flooding has occurred. That county would like to close the new channel and redirect the water back through the old channel which would cause flooding in our area once again. Since that is not a viable option, a new solution needs to be found. We have to admit that we are not convinced there is a ‘solution’ since the river moves where it moves.

Two representatives from Yapacani county and one from the San Juan county joined us. Two had never flown before and we made sure everyone had eaten and had taken Gravol before the flight. The day was very breezy, making the flight in a 6-seater plane more than interesting!

We flew to Yapacani and then up the river. When we arrived at our group of communities we saw that the river became a real ‘snake’ with lots of curves. It would be interesting to know how many miles of river there are in that small piece of land. The picture we saw was much different from the Google map.

All the pictures we took will be put together to provide a profile for the communities, illustrating where the river broke through and the flooding in the communities on the other side. We could determine where and how the river had moved by surveying the growth of trees.

Now the community representatives are left with the challenge of determining what action should be taken, drawing up a proposal, and finding funding for the project.

A Road in Danger

The highway from Cochabamba to Santa Cruz is the main thoroughfare through Bolivia, and without it; Santa Cruz would be cut off from all materials – diesel, gas, food. This past week the waters in Rio Pirai, close to Montero, caused problems. Although the water is not high, its force is wearing away the soft banks. Last year and enormous amount of time and money was spent building ‘defensibles’ that were meant to prevent this erosion but already these have broken and the river has changed its course.

Last week the water was about 50 to 75m. from the road and now it is starting to undercut the bank. The pavement is cracking. The military and road crews are building cages for rocks and sand and literally throwing them over, along with logs, to give the bank some protection.

While work is done on the road, all traffic is stopped. Long line ups occur. Traffic can proceed through the work zone for an hour while the men have lunch or when the work day is finished. Trucks and cars line the road while vendors sell food and drinks to those waiting to cross. Truckers take a snooze under their vehicles, lying either on the asphalt or in a hammock. Trufi taxis and moto taxis ferry people to the front of the line where they walk through the construction zone, then hire another taxi on the other side and proceed to their destination