God's World is Small -- and He is Good!

This past week we spent at the ECHO (Education Concerns for Hunger Organization) Conference in Florida. We had attended this conference 4 years ago as we travelled to Bolivia and we now returning after four years of experience.

Living in a foreign country has its challenges and we have been suffering from cultural fatigue for the past few months. We were wondering what we were doing in Bolivia, if we were effective, if we should move on -- what should be we do?

Coming here was not without its challenges, also. I booked the trip in September.We planned to go to Iowa and Minnesota to visit Jake's family and attend a wedding and then fly on the the ECHO conference in Florida. The night before we left I checked the computer for a receipt for the trip but saw instead that all our flights were cancelled -- and there was no receipt. After a late night trip to the airport, we spent hours on two computers trying to arrange flights. Finally, we put one on hold at a price that was far beyond our means and our credit card limit. The next morning we were the first in line at the American Airlines counter and were told that the prices had changed -- they had gone up. However, by combining our flights the agent was able to get us a flight for a semi reasonable rate -- one that would fit on the credit card! Words could not express the gratitude we felt as we made the final arrangements and boarded the plane.

Whenever I come to a conference I am curious about the attendees. The first surprise was to find that there were six people at this conference associated with out little rural church way out in Alberta, Canada, attending a little known conference in Florida. Ad is a missionary in Haiti sponsored by our church, Jake and I are still members of WoodyNook, Andrew's girlfriend attends that church as does David and his family. It was great to spend time with people with similar ideas and to have the 'in' on the ECHO farm.

But that was not all. EFCCM is not a large organization either. The attendee list contained two delegates, Melvin and Priscilla from the Ukraine associated with EFCCM. One of the speakers, a former ECHO intern,Angela. and her husband have recently joined the EFCCM team as well.

The conference was a real blessing. It re-invigorated us, gave us a renewed perspective on what we are doing, gave us ideas for change, and gave us the support from fellow delegates. The devotions and singing were especially meaningful and many tears were shed. We feel blessed as we head back to Bolivia. Thank you, ECHO.

I encourage all those who read this to check out the ECHO link on our blog.

Is the honeymoon over?

We have now been here for four years and the honeymoon is over. We are realizing the differences in expectations between ourselves and some of the members of the community. It seems like some of them accepted us into the community so that they could benefit from the ‘freebies’ that the gringos would bring. Now that they are realizing that there are no freebies, they do not see any advantage to having us in the community.
This all started in May when the men of the community asked Jake about buying a combine. Jake arranged a day to meet to discuss the combine but no one came. Now, this was not unusual for Bolivia – rice harvesting was over so why think about a combine in May when you didn’t need it until October? There were some men who showed some interest in purchasing a combine. However, they wanted 90-100% financing and we cannot afford to do that. We also do not think that it is wise for one of them to be so far in debt.
Instead we decided to enter this as a business and to look for someone with whom to partner, someone with a good business sense, someone who was honest, and someone who would work in our area. The man we are working with is from Santa Cruz and seems to have a good head and a good heart. He bought the cat a couple of years ago and had it paid off in a year and a half. He has a chaco in one of the neighbouring communities as well as a house in Santa Cruz.
So in September, when the men asked Jake what was happening, he said that he was working on something but would not tell them all the details. Some of the men of the community became very angry and the ‘carpet bagging’ started. There were two vocal men who stated they were talking for the rest. If they were we do not know but no one asked them to be quiet. The long and the short of it is that some do not feel that they are receiving any benefits that they feel deserve and that other are getting more than others. They feel that only the Diaz family is benefitting from the tractor. Somehow they forget that two years ago they were walking or biking 18 kilometres to see if there might be a tractor or a combine available – and often there wasn’t. Now they just go 6 kms. and arrange the tractor work with Teodoro. But it is not money in their pocket so they don’t see any benefit. The health program, the transportation to and from the doctor—all the little things – those “were just little things and didn’t count”. They also thought that Jake should come to them for approval on anything that he wanted to do with anyone in the community and that no one should get more than the other –unless, of course, that someone happened to be them. They also did not want Jake to help other communities.
Thankfully, there are some wonderful people from the community who showed their support for us. We decided to purchased the combine as an investment and still want it to be available to the people in this zone. The rest of the time it can work in other areas. We should be able to keep it working 10 months of the year. There are lots of people in the neighbouring communities who are thrilled that there will be a combine in the area and we feel we made the right decision. At the last meeting there was an overwhelming show of support. Sometimes it takes a crisis to bring everything together and into perspective. We are so thankful for wonderful friends in the community who have stood by and supported us. They truly are a gift of God.
Things in agriculture have changed since we arrived. The first year was a disaster with low rice prices, the flooding and the difficulties it presented. Most of the people had small plots, the largest being 10 hectares but most being 3-5 hectares so the combine operators didn’t really want to come that far for so little work.
The next year, there was no flooding because the river changed, the weather was good, the production was up, and the price rose substantially. A lot of money was made and consequently, many of the farmers cleared more land to plant more rice to make more money. The majority of the neighbours acquired motorcycles and life looked good.
But last year brought drought conditions and production was way down. Because there was no rain, the weeds grew well. When the rice was ready, there were no combines availableso the rice became too dry. Add to that, the price fell and many were not able to sell their rice. Now is the time to plant another crop and many still have not sold their crops from last year. In other areas, because it has been a wet winter, the road is still too wet to take out the rice.
Then there is another side. With the increase of land in production, many of the farmers borrowed money from a government program called MAPA. Some also borrowed money from banks. And they borrowed some from Jake. When all was said and done, some were not able to pay all their loans. Nor did they pay the operators for combining or the cat operator for clearing the land. In the community of Tarumá, many took out loans to clear more land. Now they are caught. It is time to plant rice and there is no money. When we started the credit program we explained that credit could be your best friend or your worst enemy. For those who did not manage their money well, it has become their enemy. What will happen, we do not know. Maybe much of the land that was cleared will not be planted. There will be growing pains as the people learn how to live in a different economy.

Bridges and Roads

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We have lived in this community for 3 and a half years and have seen the condition of the road ebb and flow with the seasons. This spring , it is at its worst.

Year #1 was a series of community blockades that restricted our movement and led to many frustrating times trying to obtain permission to come and go through the neighbouring community. Thanks to their diligent blockading, the road in our community stayed in relatively good shape.

Year #2 brought increased traffic since many of the local farmers increased their rice production, the farming was more mechanized, and more people were working land further into the jungle. That meant more road traffic and our poor roads were eaten away by the heavy rice trucks. Also, the logging company moved on and the little maintenance that was done ceased.

Year #3 – a new gravel (rock) road to within three kilometres of the gate. But more problems with those three kilometres. No one was maintaining the road. People were moving the rice while the roads were wet. The dry season was wetter than normal so the road never dried out. The result was a very rough path, full of pot holes.

Of course, there is always talk of fixing the road and of installing bridges. This spring it happened. One new bridge and four culverts have been installed in the three kilometres leading to the main road. After a couple of weeks the road grader arrived and started to raise the road. As is normal, it has now broken down and is in for repairs. The local government says that it doesn’t have the money for the repairs so one of the farmers from Taruma has lent them 4000 bolivianos so that the grader can be fixed. He and his family own three chacos and have soy ready to be harvested so he sees the need for a better road.

It would cost about $1000US to put gravel on the road in Patujusal 2. Each land owner would pay about $70.00 -- about what one would receive for 2 fanagas (360 kilos) of rice. Most farmers have over 5 hectares of land mechanized and should get between 18 and 25 fanagas per hectare for a total of 90 to 245 fanagas. It would take only 2 fanagas to gravel the road but the majority decided that they would rather not gravel the road but instead, wait for a year or so to see if the local government – or someone else – will do it for them. You can imagine what the road will look like next year!

We hear that they will asphalt the first 45 kilometers in 2010. Should we count on it?

New Life

It was about 10 in the morning and I was just finishing coffee and conversation with a friend from Santa Cruz. The neighbour, Francisco, arrived on his motorbike and asked if I would come because his wife was having the baby. She wasn't due for another three days but babies come when they are ready. It took a few minutes to find Jake since he had the keys to the truck, but soon I left with a blanket, some towels, and a scissors -- just in case.

I came to the house to find Carmen standing beside the bed and Francisco, holding a very newborn baby girl while the two other boys, Fanor and William, peeked through the cracks in the siding of the house.

Gingerly, we helped Carmen to the bed. She was having problems expelling the placenta. Francisco had already cut the cord so there was a chance that the cord would slip back into Carmen's body. To prevent this, he cut a length of string long enough so that one end could be tied to the end of the umbilical cord and the other end to Carmen's toe. Very inventive and simple!

After insuring that everything with the baby was fine and that she was wrapped up in a clean, warm towel, I headed off to La Pista to get the nurse, praying that she would actually be there. Thankfully, she was and she willingly came back with me.

Santitation and cleanliness is an issue in the Western world. How would one function in a house with a dirt floor and questionable sanitation? The evidence of the birth had been covered with fresh dirt and Francisco had prepared water with herbs to clean the baby and Carmen. The IV was hung with a piece of string to the wood rafter, a used pop bottle was used for breathing, and soon the placenta was expelled. No, sanitation was not the standard we expect in Canda and most women of the developed world would never want to deliver a baby under these conditions. I was impressed by the care of both Francisco and the nurse to keep things clean.

Soon Mother and baby were clean and warm in their bed, the nurse returned to La Pisa, and I went home to prepare dinner for Jake.

(This is a picture of Abigail at 2 months of age. My picture of her taken an hour after her birth disappeared somewhere between the camera and the computer.)

Faith of our Fathers

It was 80 years ago when my dad, 25, and his eighteen year old brother left Holland and arrived in Alberta on a cold, snowy spring day. Their expected work did not transpire but Dad was able to secure work at another farm within a couple of weeks. He worked on that farm for five years until he and his brother were able to purchase their own land.

This summer our families joined together to celebrate these two events -- their arrival and the purchase of the farm. My brother resides on the original farm so we were able to celebrate there, and a celebration it was.

Although I had known the facts of their immigration, the loss of my uncle's hands and the subsequent events, the impact hit me this summer. Imagine a young man in the prime of life having only stumps where his arms once were. Imagine these stumps not being long enough even to maintain basic bodily cleanliness. Imagine being faced with deportation and loosing a dream of a new life in a new land. And also imagine the responsibility of the older brother who had already lost four other siblings as children and only had this brother and his handicapped sister left. He had promised that he would take care of this brother and he took this very seriously until the day he died.

But what remains is the heritage of faith and loyalty. Our Sunday worship centered on Joshua 4 and family members laid a stone on a pile, illustrating the faith of our fathers. What a witness to these two men and to our God.

We have chosen to move to Bolivia and we experience many of the same problems, the same challenges, that they did but how much easier we have it. We went for different reasons. They saw a land of opportunity in which they could provide for their families. We left for a calmer lifestyle and an opportunity to bring a world and life view to people in Bolivia that centers on God, his world and our place in it. We have age and experience. We left our children, not our parents. We have enough finances to purchase the things we need and many of the wants. We have instant communication while they wondered if their wartime letters reached their aging parents.

And yet one thing remains constant. We all know and experience the constant presence of our Lord through the Holy Spirit. We are confident that God guides our lives, that he turns our mistakes,our sins, our errors for good. We have confidence in his promises that he will never leave us or forsake us, that he will be with us always. That is the reason we can live where we live and do what we can do.

We become frustrated. We wonder what we are doing. We question how our actions affect the community. People ask how it is going and how long we will stay. We don't always know how to answer. But we do know that God is control and that he has brought us to this place. We can only trust that he will also guide our blundering actions to show his love and his kingdom. I think it was Henri Nouwen who, when talking about the work of missionaries, said that we must always remember that God was here before us and I also know that he will be here after we leave. We thank him for the opportunity to show a small part of his love and his grace to this little part of the world.

Farming Challenges

This year has been anything but normal. I expected to experience the January flooding but saw dusty roads. Good for the drivers but bad for the farmers.

Before we left in December we already knew that many of the rice crops planted earlier in September and October did not germinate. The plan was that these crops could be harvested in January. Other farmers planted in December, planning to harvest in April. But the rains still not come, resulting in poor production from lack of moisture.

Water in the fields serves two purposes. The first is moisture for the crops. Rice does not need to stand in water to grow and we could get into the technicalities of aeration and the water capacities of soils but I will leave that to the experts. The second advantage of standing water is that the grass seeds do not germinate when everything is wet. So, when we have a dry season such as we just experienced, the rice does not grow as well and the grasses and weeds quickly surpass it.

Now add another problem -- no combines available when the rice was ready to harvest. Many of the combine operators worked on the other side of Santa Cruz harvesting the larger fields of soy beans. Considering payment is made per hectare it makes good business sense to work the larger fields. However, that meant that there were no combines available for the smaller fields. There is a very small window for harvesting rice at its prime. When it is dry, the rice shatters when hulled and the value drops significantly. Without a combine, most of the rice in our area was harvested when it was much to dry. In many fields the grasses continued to grow and when the combines were finally available, there was too much grass and too little rice so the fields were not harvested.

Then add the third problem. The value of rice has dropped since last year. Farmers based their profit estimates on the price of the previous year and are now very disappointed. The general price has dropped and then there is the dockage for the rice being too dry. And that is if you are able to sell your rice. We have ours in storage because no one was buying. Some farmers have stood in line for two or three days just waiting to sell rice.

The farmers who planted 'chaco' rice, which is harvested by hand, were able to harvest on time and get a good price. But too many have experienced the ease of mechanized farming and decided that they would do it the easy way. Sadly, the easy way doesn't always bring a profit so many will be experiencing a very thin year financially.

Farming, no matter where it is, is a next year occupation. In spite of the problems, the rice will be planted again next fall with hopes of more rain and better prices.

Adios Mi Amiga Balentina

7:30 p.m. A knock on the door. Ángel, one of the neighbours, looking shocked and slightly teary. Would we please take his Mom and Dad and himself to Yapacani? His aunt was killed in a motorcycle accident – Balentina.

Reaction to this type of announcement is disbelief and immediate action. Within half an hour we were on the road with Ángel’s family and some of the neighbours. Still, it did not seem real. Arriving in Yapacani at 10:30 we found family and friends surrounding the casket. It was real. My friend had died. Only the day before we saw her washing clothes at her home in the chaco – the familiar large smile and the wave as we drove past, not knowing that we would never see her again.

Balentina and her family returned to the city on Monday morning. She was walking along the road close to the bridge on the east end of town. (For you who have been here that is the bridge close to our corner.) A motorcycle passed her and hit her in the side with the handle bars, causing her to fall head first on to the road and roll three times. Reports say that she got up and immediate fell again, this time backwards. From then on we are not clear what happened but she was taken to the Japanese hospital (a good private hospital) in San Juan but they sent her immediately to Santa Cruz. There she died from her injuries and the body was taken by ambulance back to Yapacani. The driver of the motorcycle spent the night and the next day in the police station. He hired a lawyer, who wanted Zacarius, Balentina’s husband, to sign a settlement immediately. A cousin suggested that he sign nothing and we concurred.

Because Balentina’s mother lives in Sucre, the funeral did not take place until Wednesday – a long wait for Bolivia. In the meantime, family and friends visited the room in which Balentina lay in her coffin. Each visitor brought something – food, candles, soda pop, coca leaves, or cigarettes. Many of the Catholic or traditional customs were observed – the lighting of the candles around the coffin, the spilling of the soda pop or chicha, the three taps on the side of the coffin, the black tops or shawls, the new shawl and food in the coffin, the washing of the clothes in acid and then burning them.

Zacarius has a very strong family circle and their support was evident. They were more accustomed to death and know what normally was done, according to their culture. Also, they are a great support for Zacarius and his daughters Erlinda, Nilda, MarieLyn and his son, Alvaro.

Yesterday was the funeral. We bid Adios—to God -- to Balentina. She was a lady who always expressed a great interest in the church although she was not comfortable attending church in Yapacani. She would attend special services at the church in Patujusal. But that doesn’t always tell the story. As we visited, I spotted a well used Bible in the house. I have no doubt that she and children used it. I believe that God takes each of his children where they are at and that, Balentina with her child like faith, has a place with him.

I will miss her. I will miss her big smile, her wonderful warm hugs, her openness, the demonstrations of love for her husband and her children, the conversations. But I will remember her fondly and will never look at a piece of embroidery without thinking of her.

A Dios, Balentina.. God bless you.

Taking your life in Your Hands

For those who have never travelled to other countries, the traffic in Bolivia may be a bit intimidating. So let me tell you a few of the ‘guidelines’ that might be useful if you decide to drive here. It really isn’t that hard. Just believe that you have the right of way, act like it, and drive a bigger vehicle. There has been a huge increase in traffic, both in the city and the country. I am sure that most have received their licenses in the Crackerjack or Corn Flakes box! There are also more women driving motorcycles, vehicles and even tractor.

1. There are no stop signs and those that exist have no meaning. Maybe you should stop, maybe not. Best just proceed.
2. You usually drive on the right side of the road. But if the left side is smoother, drive there until there is oncoming traffic. Or if the traffic is moving too slow for you and there is on-coming traffic, feel free to use the shoulder.
3. If there is a one way street and you just need to proceed a little ways down it, do so. The one coming traffic will move, although they will scold you by beeping their horns.
4. Turning left – first, do not assume that the person to your right will not decide to make a left turn. He will wave his fingers indicating that you are to let him move in front of you. Second, it is unlikely that if there are two people who wish to turn left, that they will form a line. Rather, they will both approach the intersection side by side and proceed to make their turn.
5. On a gravel road you do not expect the other driver to pull over into his own lane when he meets you. Maybe he will move a foot or two. It works to stop and just fold your arms indicating that you are not moving.turn when they consider it safe.
6. When someone peeps the horn it may mean that: a) get out of my way. b) I am here, c) Do you want a ride in my taxi?, d) Hi, e) Didn’t you notice that the light changed a quarter of a second ago?, f) Move!
   
7. When you pass, try to ensure that there is enough room. But it there isn’t the on-coming traffic will move over for you.
8. If you are entering a busy intersection, just enter and slowly merge. Either you will get in or you will wait. It depends who backs down first.
9. If you need to need to stop to go into a store, just double park.
10. In the smaller towns, park where your vehicle fits. Don’t worry if you are nearly on the road. Better there than getting blocked in by parking ‘correctly’.

Most of all – be alert and have fun! No one wants to be involved in an accident.

A new year starts

After a long trek across the Americas we arrived safely home in Bolivia. We are always grateful for the ease at which we can traverse the globe. After a couple of days in Santa Cruz we headed back to Patuju with the truck and the quad, thinking that we if the roads were flooded we would be able to get home. However, we were shocked by the lack of rain and lack of moisture for the crops. No water – no flooding!

There had been very little rain since we left five weeks ago. The rice is showing stress but the weeds are growing well. Although there was some rain it wasn’t sufficient for the rice. The impact that this will have on the economy of this area is uncertain.

But things have changed and the rain has come. Again, we wonder if there is enough. 2 ¾ inches in North America would last for quite some time but not so in Bolivia. However, it has been raining off and on for the past week and the rain has soaked in. For our rice, which is just flowering, this rain has been a blessing.

Being farmers, there is much complaining! Although the rice price is much lower than it was last year, it is still higher than it was the first year we lived here. Like everyone else, they get used to the higher price and feel that they are in a bad situation when the prices lower.

In spite of the lack of rain the weeds continued to grow, and I have a couple of weeks of work cleaning the flower gardens in front of the house. Grass is the dominant weed and each one needs to be taken out by the root and since the ground is moist, the roots come out easily. The problem is not the weeds but the ants. They attack anything that disturbs their home so feet and hands are easy targets.

Jake tried to hook up the solar panels again but again something blew so we will have to send both controls back to USA for repair. Frustrating!!! Hopefully someday everything will be hooked up and working. For now, when the sun shines, we have enough for lights and for the computer. It is sufficient and we are thankful for what we have.