Thursday, February 19, 2009

Adios Mi Amiga Balentina


7:30 p.m. A knock on the door. Ángel, one of the neighbours, looking shocked and slightly teary. Would we please take his Mom and Dad and himself to Yapacani? His aunt was killed in a motorcycle accident – Balentina.

Reaction to this type of announcement is disbelief and immediate action. Within half an hour we were on the road with Ángel’s family and some of the neighbours. Still, it did not seem real. Arriving in Yapacani at 10:30 we found family and friends surrounding the casket. It was real. My friend had died. Only the day before we saw her washing clothes at her home in the chaco – the familiar large smile and the wave as we drove past, not knowing that we would never see her again.

Balentina and her family returned to the city on Monday morning. She was walking along the road close to the bridge on the east end of town. (For you who have been here that is the bridge close to our corner.) A motorcycle passed her and hit her in the side with the handle bars, causing her to fall head first on to the road and roll three times. Reports say that she got up and immediate fell again, this time backwards. From then on we are not clear what happened but she was taken to the Japanese hospital (a good private hospital) in San Juan but they sent her immediately to Santa Cruz. There she died from her injuries and the body was taken by ambulance back to Yapacani. The driver of the motorcycle spent the night and the next day in the police station. He hired a lawyer, who wanted Zacarius, Balentina’s husband, to sign a settlement immediately. A cousin suggested that he sign nothing and we concurred.

Because Balentina’s mother lives in Sucre, the funeral did not take place until Wednesday – a long wait for Bolivia. In the meantime, family and friends visited the room in which Balentina lay in her coffin. Each visitor brought something – food, candles, soda pop, coca leaves, or cigarettes. Many of the Catholic or traditional customs were observed – the lighting of the candles around the coffin, the spilling of the soda pop or chicha, the three taps on the side of the coffin, the black tops or shawls, the new shawl and food in the coffin, the washing of the clothes in acid and then burning them.

Zacarius has a very strong family circle and their support was evident. They were more accustomed to death and know what normally was done, according to their culture. Also, they are a great support for Zacarius and his daughters Erlinda, Nilda, MarieLyn and his son, Alvaro.

Yesterday was the funeral. We bid Adios—to God -- to Balentina. She was a lady who always expressed a great interest in the church although she was not comfortable attending church in Yapacani. She would attend special services at the church in Patujusal. But that doesn’t always tell the story. As we visited, I spotted a well used Bible in the house. I have no doubt that she and children used it. I believe that God takes each of his children where they are at and that, Balentina with her child like faith, has a place with him.

I will miss her. I will miss her big smile, her wonderful warm hugs, her openness, the demonstrations of love for her husband and her children, the conversations. But I will remember her fondly and will never look at a piece of embroidery without thinking of her.

A Dios, Balentina.. God bless you.

Friday, February 13, 2009

Taking your life in Your Hands

For those who have never travelled to other countries, the traffic in Bolivia may be a bit intimidating. So let me tell you a few of the ‘guidelines’ that might be useful if you decide to drive here. It really isn’t that hard. Just believe that you have the right of way, act like it, and drive a bigger vehicle. There has been a huge increase in traffic, both in the city and the country. I am sure that most have received their licenses in the Crackerjack or Corn Flakes box! There are also more women driving motorcycles, vehicles and even tractor.

  1. There are no stop signs and those that exist have no meaning. Maybe you should stop, maybe not. Best just proceed.
  2. You usually drive on the right side of the road. But if the left side is smoother, drive there until there is oncoming traffic. Or if the traffic is moving too slow for you and there is on-coming traffic, feel free to use the shoulder.
  3. If there is a one way street and you just need to proceed a little ways down it, do so. The one coming traffic will move, although they will scold you by beeping their horns.
  4. Turning left – first, do not assume that the person to your right will not decide to make a left turn. He will wave his fingers indicating that you are to let him move in front of you. Second, it is unlikely that if there are two people who wish to turn left, that they will form a line. Rather, they will both approach the intersection side by side and proceed to make their turn.
  5. On a gravel road you do not expect the other driver to pull over into his own lane when he meets you. Maybe he will move a foot or two. It works to stop and just fold your arms indicating that you are not moving.turn when they consider it safe.
  6. When someone peeps the horn it may mean that: a) get out of my way. b) I am here, c) Do you want a ride in my taxi?, d) Hi, e) Didn’t you notice that the light changed a quarter of a second ago?, f) Move!
  7. When you pass, try to ensure that there is enough room. But it there isn’t the on-coming traffic will move over for you.
  8. If you are entering a busy intersection, just enter and slowly merge. Either you will get in or you will wait. It depends who backs down first.
  9. If you need to need to stop to go into a store, just double park.
  10. In the smaller towns, park where your vehicle fits. Don’t worry if you are nearly on the road. Better there than getting blocked in by parking ‘correctly’.

Most of all – be alert and have fun! No one wants to be involved in an accident.

A new year starts

After a long trek across the Americas we arrived safely home in Bolivia. We are always grateful for the ease at which we can traverse the globe. After a couple of days in Santa Cruz we headed back to Patuju with the truck and the quad, thinking that we if the roads were flooded we would be able to get home. However, we were shocked by the lack of rain and lack of moisture for the crops. No water – no flooding!

There had been very little rain since we left five weeks ago. The rice is showing stress but the weeds are growing well. Although there was some rain it wasn’t sufficient for the rice. The impact that this will have on the economy of this area is uncertain.

But things have changed and the rain has come. Again, we wonder if there is enough. 2 ¾ inches in North America would last for quite some time but not so in Bolivia. However, it has been raining off and on for the past week and the rain has soaked in. For our rice, which is just flowering, this rain has been a blessing.

Being farmers, there is much complaining! Although the rice price is much lower than it was last year, it is still higher than it was the first year we lived here. Like everyone else, they get used to the higher price and feel that they are in a bad situation when the prices lower.

In spite of the lack of rain the weeds continued to grow, and I have a couple of weeks of work cleaning the flower gardens in front of the house. Grass is the dominant weed and each one needs to be taken out by the root and since the ground is moist, the roots come out easily. The problem is not the weeds but the ants. They attack anything that disturbs their home so feet and hands are easy targets.

Jake tried to hook up the solar panels again but again something blew so we will have to send both controls back to USA for repair. Frustrating!!! Hopefully someday everything will be hooked up and working. For now, when the sun shines, we have enough for lights and for the computer. It is sufficient and we are thankful for what we have.